Jalan beraspal yang kanan kirinya ditumbuhi pohon kelapa akan ditemui bila berjalan ke arah utara melewati ring road barat Yogyakarta. Melaju mengikuti arah jalan itu, anda akan sampai ke sebuah dusun bernama Mlangi, tepatnya di sebuah masjid bernama Jami' Mlangi. Sekeliling masjid itu berupa kompleks pemakaman dengan yang paling terkenal adalah makam Kyai Nur Iman.

Nama Mlangi tak lepas dari sosok Kyai Nur Iman yang sebenarnya adalah kerabat Hamengku Buwono I, bernama asli Pangeran Hangabehi Sandiyo. Kisahnya, Nur Iman yang sudah lama membina pesantren di Jawa Timur diberi hadiah berupa tanah oleh Hamengku Buwono I. Tanah itulah yang kemudian dinamai 'mlangi', dari kata bahasa Jawa 'mulangi' yang berarti mengajar. Dinamai demikian sebab daerah itu kemudian digunakan untuk mengajar agama Islam.

Masjid Jami' Mlangi adalah bangunan paling legendaris di dusun ini karena dibangun pada masa Kyai Nur Iman, sekitar tahun 1760-an. Meski telah mengalami renovasi dan beberapa perubahan, arsitektur aslinya masih dapat dinikmati. Diantaranya adalah gapura masjid dan dinding sekitar masjid yang didesain seperti bangunan di daerah Kraton. Di dalam masjid yang oleh warga sekitar disebut "Masjid Gedhe" itu juga tersimpan sebuah mimbar berwarna putih yang digunakan sejak Kyai Nur Iman mengajar Islam.

Makam Kyai Nur Iman dapat dijangkau dengan melewati jalan di sebelah selatan masjid atau melompati sebuah kolam kecil yang ada di sebelah tempat wudlu. Makam itu terletak di sebuah bangunan seperti rumah dan dikelilingi cungkup dari bahan kayu. Makam itu selalu ramai sepanjang tahun, terutama pada tanggal 15 Suro yang merupakan tanggal wafatnya Kyai Nur Iman dan bulan Ruwah. Hanya pada bulan ramadan saja makam itu agak sepi. Biasanya, para peziarah membaca surat-surat Al-Qur'an dengan duduk di samping atau depan cungkup makam.

Berkeliling ke dusun Mlangi, anda akan menjumpai setidaknya 10 pesantren. Diantaranya, sebelah selatan masjid pesantren As-Salafiyah, sebelah timur Al-Huda, dan sebelah utara Al-Falakiyah. Pesantren As-Salafiyah merupakan yang paling tua, dibangun sejak 5 Juli 1921 oleh K.H. Masduki. Mulanya, As-Salafiyah bukanlah pesantren, hanya komunitas yang belajar agama di sebuah mushola kecil. Komunitas itu lantas berkembang menjadi pesantren karena banyak yang berminat. Meski bangunannya tak begitu besar, pesantren ini memiliki 300-an santri dan menggunakan metode mengajar yang tak kalah maju dengan sekolah umum.

Keakraban penduduk dengan Islam bukan sesuatu yang dibuat-buat. Buktinya dapat dilihat dari cara berpakaian penduduk. Di Mlangi, para lelaki biasa memakai sarung, baju muslim, dan peci meski tidak hendak pergi ke masjid. Sementara hampir semua perempuan di dusun ini mengenakan jilbab di dalam maupun di luar rumah. Pengamalan ajaran Islam seolah menjadi prioritas bagi warga Mlangi. Konon, warga rela menjual harta bendanya agar bisa naik haji.

Meski banyak warga punya kesibukan dalam mendalami agama Islam, tak berarti mereka tidak maju dalam hal duniawi. Dusun Mlangi sejak lama dikenal sebagai salah satu penghasil tekstil terkemuka, hanya jenis produknya saja yang berubah sesuai perkembangan jaman. Pada tahun 1920-an, usaha tenun dan batik cetak marak di kampung ini hingga tahun 1965-an. Usaha itu mulai pudar sejak batik sablon menguasai pasar dan harga kain bahan batik terus meningkat. Akhirnya, hanya tersisa beberapa pengusaha batik, diantaranya Batik Sultan agung yang juga mulai meredup akhir 1980-an. Kini, usaha yang sedang berkembang adalah celana batik, peci, jilbab, net bulutangkis, dan papan karambol.

Setiap Ramadan, dusun ini selalu ramai dengan ritual ibadah yang dijalankan warganya. Mulai dari tadarus, pengajian anak-anak, dan sebagainya. Tak sedikit pula masyarakat dari luar Mlangi yang datang untuk 'wisata' agama, semacam pesantren kilat. Nah, bila anda ingin berkunjung ke Mlangi, inilah saat yang tepat. Sepanjang siang selama bulan Ramadhan, anda juga akan melihat betapa akrab anak-anak bermain petasan.

Sumber : http://www.yogyes.com

Baca Artikel Lainnya : WISATA ROHANI ISLAM KE LIMA DESTINASI

DUSUN MLANGI, WISATA ISLAM INDONESIA

GREENWICH, Conn. — Mago is in the bedroom. You can go in.

The big man lies on a hospital bed with his bare feet scraping its bottom rail. His head is propped on a scarlet pillow, the left temple dented, the right side paralyzed. His dark hair is kept just long enough to conceal the scars.

The occasional sounds he makes are understood only by his wife, but he still has that punctuating left hand. In slow motion, the fingers curl and close. A thumbs-up greeting.

Hello, Mago.

This is Magomed Abdusalamov, 34, also known as the Russian Tyson, also known as Mago. He is a former heavyweight boxer who scored four knockouts and 14 technical knockouts in his first 18 professional fights. He preferred to stand between rounds. Sitting conveyed weakness.

But Mago lost his 19th fight, his big chance, at the packed Theater at Madison Square Garden in November 2013. His 19th decision, and his last.

Now here he is, in a small bedroom in a working-class neighborhood in Greenwich, in a modest house his family rents cheap from a devoted friend. The air-pressure machine for his mattress hums like an expectant crowd.

 

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Mike Perez, left, and Magomed Abdusalamov during the fight in which Abdusalamov was injured. Credit Joe Camporeale/USA Today Sports, via Reuters

 

Today is like any other day, except for those days when he is hurried in crisis to the hospital. Every three hours during the night, his slight wife, Bakanay, 28, has risen to turn his 6-foot-3 body — 210 pounds of dead weight. It has to be done. Infections of the gaping bedsore above his tailbone have nearly killed him.

Then, with the help of a young caretaker, Baka has gotten two of their daughters off to elementary school and settled down the toddler. Yes, Mago and Baka are blessed with all girls, but they had also hoped for a son someday.

They feed Mago as they clean him; it’s easier that way. For breakfast, which comes with a side of crushed antiseizure pills, he likes oatmeal with a squirt of Hershey’s chocolate syrup. But even oatmeal must be puréed and fed to him by spoon.

He opens his mouth to indicate more, the way a baby does. But his paralysis has made everything a choking hazard. His water needs a stirring of powdered food thickener, and still he chokes — eh-eh-eh — as he tries to cough up what will not go down.

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Mago used to drink only water. No alcohol. Not even soda. A sip of juice would be as far as he dared. Now even water betrays him.

With the caretaker’s help, Baka uses a washcloth and soap to clean his body and shampoo his hair. How handsome still, she has thought. Sometimes, in the night, she leaves the bedroom to watch old videos, just to hear again his voice in the fullness of life. She cries, wipes her eyes and returns, feigning happiness. Mago must never see her sad.

 

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 Abdusalamov's hand being massaged. Credit Ángel Franco/The New York Times

 

When Baka finishes, Mago is cleanshaven and fresh down to his trimmed and filed toenails. “I want him to look good,” she says.

Theirs was an arranged Muslim marriage in Makhachkala, in the Russian republic of Dagestan. He was 23, she was 18 and their future hinged on boxing. Sometimes they would shadowbox in love, her David to his Goliath. You are so strong, he would tell her.

His father once told him he could either be a bandit or an athlete, but if he chose banditry, “I will kill you.” This paternal advice, Mago later told The Ventura County Reporter, “made it a very easy decision for me.”

Mago won against mediocre competition, in Moscow and Hollywood, Fla., in Las Vegas and Johnstown, Pa. He was knocked down only once, and even then, it surprised more than hurt. He scored a technical knockout in the next round.

It all led up to this: the undercard at the Garden, Mike Perez vs. Magomed Abdusalamov, 10 rounds, on HBO. A win, he believed, would improve his chances of taking on the heavyweight champion Wladimir Klitschko, who sat in the crowd of 4,600 with his fiancée, the actress Hayden Panettiere, watching.

Wearing black-and-red trunks and a green mouth guard, Mago went to work. But in the first round, a hard forearm to his left cheek rocked him. At the bell, he returned to his corner, and this time, he sat down. “I think it’s broken,” he repeatedly said in Russian.

 

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Bakanay Abdusalamova, Abdusalamov's wife, and her injured husband and a masseur in the background. Credit Ángel Franco/The New York Times

 

Maybe at that point, somebody — the referee, the ringside doctors, his handlers — should have stopped the fight, under a guiding principle: better one punch too early than one punch too late. But the bloody trade of blows continued into the seventh, eighth, ninth, a hand and orbital bone broken, his face transforming.

Meanwhile, in the family’s apartment in Miami, Baka forced herself to watch the broadcast. She could see it in his swollen eyes. Something was off.

After the final round, Perez raised his tattooed arms in victory, and Mago wandered off in a fog. He had taken 312 punches in about 40 minutes, for a purse of $40,000.

 

 

In the locker room, doctors sutured a cut above Mago’s left eye and tested his cognitive abilities. He did not do well. The ambulance that waits in expectation at every fight was not summoned by boxing officials.

Blood was pooling in Mago’s cranial cavity as he left the Garden. He vomited on the pavement while his handlers flagged a taxi to St. Luke’s-Roosevelt Hospital. There, doctors induced a coma and removed part of his skull to drain fluids and ease the swelling.

Then came the stroke.

 

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A championship belt belonging to Abdusalamov and a card from one of his daughters. Credit Ángel Franco/The New York Times

 

It is lunchtime now, and the aroma of puréed beef and potatoes lingers. So do the questions.

How will Mago and Baka pay the $2 million in medical bills they owe? What if their friend can no longer offer them this home? Will they win their lawsuits against the five ringside doctors, the referee, and a New York State boxing inspector? What about Mago’s future care?

Most of all: Is this it?

A napkin rests on Mago’s chest. As another spoonful of mush approaches, he opens his mouth, half-swallows, chokes, and coughs until it clears. Eh-eh-eh. Sometimes he turns bluish, but Baka never shows fear. Always happy for Mago.

Some days he is wheeled out for physical therapy or speech therapy. Today, two massage therapists come to knead his half-limp body like a pair of skilled corner men.

Soon, Mago will doze. Then his three daughters, ages 2, 6 and 9, will descend upon him to talk of their day. Not long ago, the oldest lugged his championship belt to school for a proud show-and-tell moment. Her classmates were amazed at the weight of it.

Then, tonight, there will be more puréed food and pulverized medication, more coughing, and more tender care from his wife, before sleep comes.

Goodbye, Mago.

He half-smiles, raises his one good hand, and forms a fist.

Meet Mago, Former Heavyweight

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